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2022-05-31 14:46:17

作为外贸公司，当货物做好后，验货是确保货物质量的最后一关，相当重要。如果不重视验货，可能会造成功亏一篑的后果。

我在这方面吃过亏，下面就跟大家谈谈从事纺织服装的外贸公司验货的一些问题。

全文近8千字，内附纺织服装行业详细的验货标准，读完预计需要20分钟。做纺织服装的朋友建议收藏保存。

一、为什么要验货？

1.验货是生产中的最后一个环节。如果缺少这个环节，那么你工厂的生产流程就是不完善的。

2.验货是主动查找问题的方式。通过验货可以检查出哪些产品不合理，避免客户检查出来后的索赔和纠纷。

3.验货是提升交付水平的质量保证。按照规范的流程进行验货，可以有效避免客户投诉，提升品牌影响力。在出货前检验是整个品质控制中非常重要的一个环节，可以最大限度和最低成本的控制品质，降低出货风险。

在这个方面，我发现有些外贸公司为了节省成本，在大货做完了，没有去工厂验货，而是直接让工厂发货给客户的货代。结果客户收到货后发现有问题，造成外贸公司相当被动，因为你没有验货，就根本不知道厂家最后出货的情况。所以，外贸公司尤其要注意这个环节。

二、验货的流程

1.准备好订单资料。验货人员要把给工厂的订单资料拿出来，这是最初始的凭证。尤其是服装行业，基本上难以避免多做和少做的情况。所以要把原始的凭证拿出来，与工厂核对，看看每个款式的最终数量，尺码分配等，与计划数量的差别。

2.准备好验货的标准。验货人员要把检验的标准拿出来。比如说一件西装，需要检验的部位有哪些，重点部位是哪里，设计的标准是什么。图文并茂的标准，这样方便验货人员检查。

3.正式验货。提前与工厂沟通好验货的时间，让工厂做好准备，然后到现场进行验货。

4.问题反馈与起草验货报告。验货完后，要整理一份完整的验货报告。指出发现的问题。与工厂沟通解决的方案等。

下面，我以服装行业为例，讲讲在服装验货过程中常见的问题。供大家参考。

三、案例：服装验货中常见的问题

1.纺织服装验货中常见的术语

成品检验 Checking of finished products

检验，检查 inspection, check

商检 commodity inspection

领面松 wrinkles at top collar

领面紧 top collar appears tight

领面起泡 crumples at top collar

领外口松 collar edge appears loose

领外口紧 collar edge appears tight

底领伸出 collar band is longer than collar

底领缩进 collar band is shorter than collar

底领里起皱 wrinkles at collar band facing

底领外露 collar band lean out of collar

倘领偏斜 collar deviates from front center line

领窝不平 creases below neckline

后领窝起涌 bunches below back neckline

驳头起皱 wrinkles at top lapel

驳头反翘 top lapel appears tight

驳头外口松 lapel edge appears loose

驳头外口紧 lapel edge appears tight

驳口不直 lapel roll line is uneven

串口不直 gorge line is uneven

领卡脖 tight neckline

领离脖 collar stand away from neck

小肩起皱 puckers at shoulders

塌肩 wrinkles at shoulder

袖隆起皱 creases at underarm

袖隆缝起皱 puckers at underarm seam

塌胸 lack of fullness at chest

省尖起泡 crumples at dart point

拉链起皱 wrinkles at zip fly

止口不直 front edge is uneven

止口缩角 front edge is out of square

止口反翘 front edge is upturned

止口反吐 facing leans out of front edge

止口豁 split at front edge

止口下部搭叠过多 crossing at front edge

底边起皱 wrinkles at hem

后身起吊 back of coat rides up

背衩豁开 split at back vent

背衩搭叠过多 crossing at back vent

绗棉起皱 puckers at quilting

絮棉不均 padded cotton is uneven

边缘缺棉 empty hem

绱袖不圆顺 diagonal wrinkles at sleeve cap

袖子偏前 sleeve leans to front

袖子偏后 sleeve leans to back

前袖缝外翻 inseam leans to front

袖口起皱 wrinkles at sleeve opening

袖里拧 diagonal wrinkles at sleeve lining

袋盖反翘 top flap appears tight

袋盖反吐 flap lining leans out of edge

袋盖不直 flap edge is uneven

袋口角起皱 creases on two ends of pocket mouth

袋口裂 split at pocket mouth

腰头探出 end of waistband is uneven

腰缝起皱 wrinkles at waistband facing

里襟里起皱 creases at right fly

夹裆 tight crotch

短裆 short seat

后裆下垂 slack seat

前浪不平 wrinkles at front rise

裆缝断线 bursting of crotch seam

裤脚前后 two legs are uneven

脚口不齐 leg opening is uneven

吊脚 pulling at outseam or inseam

烫迹线外撇 crease line leans to outside

烫迹线内撇 crease line leans to inside

腰缝下口涌 bunches below waistline seam

裙裥豁开 split at lower part of skirt

裙身吊 split hem line rides up

裙浪不匀 skirt flare is uneven

线路偏移 stitch seam leans out line

双轨接线 stitch seam is uneven

跳针 skipping

尺码不符 off size

缝制不良 stitching quality is not good

洗水不良 washing quality is not good

熨烫不良 pressing quality is not good

极光 iron-shine

水渍 water stain

锈迹 rust

污渍 spot

色差 color shade, off shade, color deviation

褪色 fading, fugitive color

线头 thread residue

毛头 raw edge leans out of seam

绣花不良 embroidery design out line is uncovered

2.纺织服装验货中的精准表达

1.uneven--adj. 不均匀的；不平坦的。在服装英语中，uneven有不等长的，不对称的，不平服的，不均匀的。

（1）不等长的。例，在描述衬衫的左右门襟长短不一，可以用 uneven placket length；长短袖---uneven sleeve length；领尖长短不一---uneven collar point；

（2）不对称的。例，领不对称--uneven collar point/end；褶长不对称---uven pleats length；

（3）不平伏的。例，省尖不平伏--uneven dart point；

（4）不均匀的。例，线迹不均--uneven stitching ；下摆宽窄不一--uneven hem

其用法也很简单：uneven+部位/工艺。这个单词在验货英语中极为常见，意义也很丰富。所以一定要掌握！

2.poor-在服装英语中的意思是：不好的，差的，不良的。

用法：poor+工艺+（部位）；poorly shaped+部位

（1）做工差--poor workmanship

（2）熨烫不良--poor pressing

（3）缝制不良--poor sewing

（4）袋形不好--poorly shaped pkt

（5）腰上的不好--poor waitband finishing

(6) 回针不良--poor back stitch

3. missed/missing+sth at +部位 ---服装的某个部位缺sth

missed/missing+工序---漏了某道工序

（1）漏车缝---missed stitching

（2）欠垫纸---missed tissue paper

（3）缺纽扣--missing one button at the left cuff

4.服装某个部位--扭曲、拉伸、起浪、弯曲

wrinkled/twisted/stretched/distorted/wavy/puckering/curve/crooked+部位

（1）夹圈起皱---puckering armhole

（2）下摆起扭---twisted hem；里布起扭--twisted lining

（3）线迹起波浪--wavy stitching

（4）缝起皱---puckered seam

5.misplaced+sth at +部位----服装某道工序位置错误

（1）印花错位---misplaced embroidery

（2）肩垫错位--misplaced shoulder pads

（3）魔术带错位--misplaced velcro tapes

6.wrong/incorrect +sth 某物用错

（1）折叠尺寸不对--wrong folding size

（2）挂牌错--wrong hangtag

（3）主唛/洗唛错--wrong mainlabel/carelabel

7.____+mark---表示。。痕迹

（1）pencil mark铅笔印

（2）glue mark胶水印

（3）fold mark折痕

（4）wrinkled mark 起皱

（5）creases mark 皱痕

8.起吊:hiking at+部位或者：部位+ride up

9.easing--吃势。ease on+部位+uneven--某部位吃势不均。例如在绱袖、上拉链、绱领子，都会要求“吃势要均匀”。如果在验货时发现某部位吃势太少/太多/不均，我们就要用到easing这个词。

（1）前中领圈吃势太多---too much easing at CF neckline

（2）袖山吃势不均---uneven easing at sleeve cap

（3）前中拉链吃势太少--too little easing at front zipper

10.线迹。线迹+部位---表示某部位用什么线迹。SN stitch=single needle stitch车单线；DN stitch=double needle stitch双线；triple needle stitch三线；edge stitch车边线；overlock with 3/4/5 threads--三/四/五线拷边；

（1）SN stitch at front yoke

（2）edge stitch at top collar

11.high & low+部位表示：服装某部位高低不平。

（1）高低袋：high & low front chest pockets

（2）高低腰：high & low waistband ends

（3）高低领：high & low collar ends

（4）高低领圈：high & low back neck

12.某部位起泡、鼓包导致不平服。Crumple/bubble /bulge/bump/blistering at+部位

（1）bubbling at collar领子起泡

（2）Crumpled at top collar 领面起泡

13.反吐。如里布反吐、止口反吐、袋布暴露等

部位+visible

部位1+leans out of +部位2

（1）袋布外露---pocket bag visible

（2）克夫止口反吐---inner cuff visible

（3）前中反止口---facing leans out of front edge

14.把。。。绱到。。。。Set-in /sew together A and B /attach ..to... /A assemble to B

(1)绱袖：sew sleeve to armhole、set in sleeve、attach sleeve to body

(2)绱克夫：sew cuff to sleeve

(3)绱领：set-in collar

15.unmatched--常用在：袖底十字缝未对牢、不对格/条、裆缝未对牢

（1）十字缝错位--unmatched crotch cross

（2）前中不对格/条---unmatched stripes &checks at CF

（3）袖底十字缝未对牢--unmatched under armhole cross

16.OOT/OOS---out of tolerance/out of specification超出规格/公差

（1）胸围超出规定尺寸2cm---chest OOT +2cm

（2）衣长少于规定尺寸2cm---body length front from HPS-hip OOS-2cm

17.pls improve workmanship/styling/fitting--改善工艺/版型/尺寸。在描述一项问题后，可以加上这一句，以提高重视。

18.污渍、斑点等。

（1）dirty spot at collar---领有污点

（2）Water stain at CF-前中有水渍

（3）Rust stain at snap 急纽有锈迹

19.部件+not secure---某部件不牢固。常见的有钉珠，钉纽扣。。

（1）beads stitching not secure--钉珠不牢

（2）Insecured button

20.布纹用错或丝缕歪斜wrong or slanted grain line at +部位

（1）前片的丝缕错误--wrong grain line at front panel

（2）裤腿丝缕歪斜导致裤腿起扭--leg twisted because of slanted grain line at leg

(3)布纹裁错--wrong grain line cutting

21.某部件装的、绱的不好--poor +部位+setting

（1）poor sleeve setting

（2）poor collar setting

22.部位/工艺+isn't follow sample exactly 某部位/工艺未按照样衣做

（1）pocket shape and size not follow sample exactly

（2）embroidery on chest not follow sample exactly

23.服装问题+caused by +原因

（1）shading caused by poor color interlining matching

（2）front edge twisted caused by no easing at zipper

24.服装某处太松了、太紧了部位+appears+loose/tight ；too loose/tight at +部位

3.纺织服装验货中常遇到的问题？

(A) 一般性问题

(A) GENERAL DEFECTS:

1. 油漬(汚漬):

1. Soil (Dirt)

a. 油、墨、膠水、漂白劑、粉筆、機油或其它汚漬

a. Oil, ink, glue, bleach, chalk, grease, or other stain/discoloration.

b. 任何回清潔、染色或其它工工序後剩余的化學劑

b. Any residue from cleaning, dying, or other application of chemicals.

c. 任何不適的異味。

c. Any objectionable odor.

2. 不符合指定的要求:

2. Not As Specified

a. 任何不符合要求的尺寸或超出可接受的范围

a. Any measurement not as specified or outside the tolerance.

b. 主料、颜色、配件、及附件等与与确认的样板有差异的

b. Fabric, color, hardware, or accessories different from sign-off sample.

c. 替代品或漏装的部件

c. Substituted or missing parts.

d. 如要求与主料配色时所有与原面料标准不配衬的配件或配饰。

d. Poor match of fabric to an established standard or a poor match of accessories to the fabric if a match is intended.

3.面料瑕疵

3.Fabric Defects

a. 破孔

a. Holes

b. 有可能导致布料穿孔的潜伏瑕疵

b. Any surface blemish or weakness that could become a hole.

c. 布料起皱或有抽线、抽纱现象

c. Snagged or pulled thread or yarn.

d. 面料编织瑕疵如粗糙纱粒及抽纱等

d. Fabric weaving defects ( Slubs, loose threads, etc.).

e. 不均匀的染色、喷胶、托底或其它整理

e. Uneven application of dye, coating, backing, or other finish.

f. 面料结构、―手感‖或外观不符合已批核的样板。

f. Fabric construction, ―hand feel‖, or appearance different from sign off sample.

4. 开料方向

4. Cutting direction

a. 所有绒毛皮料必须依照我们的方向指示开料;

a. All napped leather have to follow our instruction of direction when cutting.

b. 任何涉及到开裁方向的面料,如灯芯绒料、针织料、印有或织有图案等布料都必须依照GEMLINE 的指示开裁。

b. Any fabric concerning cutting direction like corduroy/rib-knitted/printed or woven with pattern etc had to follow

GEMLINE’s instruction.

(B) 结构性错误

(B) CONSTRUCTION DEFECTS

1. 车线:

1. Stitching

a. 缝线与大身料颜色不配衬(若货品要求与大身料颜色须相配衬时);

a. Sewing thread different color from main fabric (if a match is intended).

b. 车线不直或车线移位,缝入邻近的部分;

b. Stitching not straight or running into adjoining panels.

c. 断线;

c. Broken stitches.

d. 针数不少于规定的每英寸车线针数;

d. Fewer than specified stitches per inch.

e. 跳线或漏针

e. Skipped or missing stitches.

f. 双线不平行

f. Double row of stitches not parallel.

g. 有针孔爆裂或线孔痕迹

g. Needle cut or stitch holes.

h. 车线太松或带有线头

h. Loose or untrimmed threads.

i. 倒针要求如下

i. Return Stitching requirement as follows:

I). 真皮小贴— 倒针两下两条线头必须拉到皮贴背面、打上结并用胶水贴在皮贴背面。

I). Leather tab- 2 return stitches and both thread ends has to be pulled down to the back side of leather tab, using 2 ends to tie

a knot and glue it down at the back of leather tab.

II). NYLON (尼龙) 袋— 所有倒针不能少于三针。

II). On nylon bag – All return stitches cannot less then 3 stitches.

2. 接口/驳口

2. Seams

a. 接口处弯曲、扭曲或起摺皱

a. Crooked, twisted, or puckered seams.

b. 接口敞开

b. Open seams

c. 接口未用适当的边骨、包边带修边

c. Seams not finished with appropriate piping or binding

d. 参差不齐或接口修边不圆滑。

d. Ragged or unfinished edges visible

3. 附件、装饰

3. Accessories, Trim

a. 拉链布边颜色与拉链不配衬如需要配色时

a. Zipper tape’s color does not match, if a match is intended

b. 金属配件生锈、刮花、颜色不符或失去光泽

b. Rust, scratches, discoloration, or tarnish of any metal part

c. 撞钉或铆钉未能完全装配紧密

c. Rivets not completely attached

d. 有不良部件如拉链、扭扣、勾扣、魔术贴、插扣等

d. Defective parts (zippers, snaps, clips, Velcro, buckles) e. 漏装配件

e. Missing parts

f. 配件及饰物与原批核板不符

f. Accessories or trim different from sign off sample

g. 边骨挤压或变形

g. Piping crushed or deformed

h. 拉链头与拉链齿不吻合

h. Zipper slider does not fit with the size of zipper teeth

i. 拉链固色。

i. Color fastness of zipper is poor.

4.口袋

4. Pockets:

a. 口袋因装歪而与大身不平行

a. Pocket not parallel with edges of bag

b. 口袋尺寸有误。

b. Pocket not correct size.

5. 补强要求

5. Reinforcement

a. 在肩带撞钉背面必须加上透明胶圈以作补强

a. The back side of all rivet which to be used for shoulder strap needs to add a clear plastic ring for reinforcement

b. NYLON (尼龙袋子的手挽车缝处背面必须加上2MM厚透明PVC以作补强;

b. The back side of stitching for attaching the handle of nylon bag has to add 2mm transparent PVC for reinforcement.

c. 内格有笔插、口袋、及橡筋等必须在其背后加上2MM厚透明PVC以作补强

c. The back side of stitching for inside panel which attached with pen-loop/pockets/elastic etc has to add 2mm transparent

PVC for reinforcement.

d. 当安装背攘手挽织带时织带两端必须车回口并覆盖与袋身的接口,并非只是把织带插入大身料后缝上而已。

经过此工序后,缝包边带的车线仍然能再次车过织带因此袋顶的手挽应该车有两行车线把手挽固定。

d. When sewing the top handle webbing of backpack, both ends of webbing had to be turned and covered the seam allowanceof body (Not Just only inserted the webbing between body materials and sewn together), After this processing, the stitching of binding should also stitched through the webbing too, so the webbing for top handle should have 2 stitching of attachment.

e. 任何用PVC托底的面料如须要产薄以便于弯角加工时弯角处应用胶水粘上420D尼龙料以作补强。

e. Any fabric backing of PVC had been skived away for achieving return edge purpose, a 420D nylon piece should be glued

inside for reinforcement when sewing through area again.